On a slab the wall leans away from you, so your weight belongs over your feet, not on your hands. Hips out from the wall, heels low. Leaning in feels safe and is what makes the shoe slide. Rubber grips by pressure: the more of your weight you commit to a foot, the better it sticks, which is the opposite of what the fear suggests.Watch the foot until it has landed, place it once and do not adjust it. Small steps, quiet feet. Hands are for balance and nothing else.Generic coaching clip, no name kept. Saved the day the desk came up three floors, for the months of no crimping under 🦾 Finger pulley return protocol. If I am only allowed open hands, I may as well learn to stand up. It turned into 🏋️ Saturday bouldering - slabs and open hands, which was most of my 🪁 Bouldering for half the year. Caleb Ostrow has the clip too, and opinions about it.Drills I took from it. Done: silent feet, a whole circuit without a shoe making a sound on the wall. Done: one touch, each foot placed once with no re-setting, for ten problems. Done: palms only on the green slab, no fingers closing on anything. Not yet: the grey slab in the corner, the one Dario named after a pasta shape, without touching the arête.
